skin care

The joy of swag bags. Do you know that particular thrill?

You go to promotional event and you walk away with a goody bag full of products to try. Sometimes the swag is less than sweet: there is still in the deep recesses of my larder a box of blueberry pancake mix that I received in a swag bag at the opening of a chain of supermarkets. But sometimes it gives me a chance to try products I wouldn’t normally buy.

Dermalogica swag Like the Dermalogica “Brighten Up” set that Planet Beauty Calabasas gave me when they had their ChromeGirl preview. The little box contained three Dermalogica items: the Special Cleansing Gel, the Daily Microfoliant®, and the Total Eye Care with SPF 15 and promised this:

“Give dull, lackluster skin a revitalizing boost! All skin conditions will benefit from this regimen, designed to reveal fresher, brighter skin and revive the delicate eye area.”

How could my dull, lackluster winter skin not benefit from that?

The Special Cleansing Gel was a treat to use. The clear gel, which contains balm mint, lavender and quillaja saponaria, foams up nicely when mixed with water and smells good. It leant itself to the massage thing facialists tell you is one of the secrets to good skin.

While my face was still damp, I sprinkled some of the Daily Microfoliant® in my palm and worked the rice-based powder formula into a creamy paste. Following the instructions, I applied it  to my face with circular motions. I’ve used scrubs that felt like I was using sandpaper on my skin; this one didn’t, it was that gentle.

Then I rinsed, rinsed, rinsed. After I dried my face, I did that peering thing in the mirror we women do: my skin felt clean, but not at all dry. In other words, the cleanser and microfoliant had not sucked every last drop of moisture from my skin, which has been my experience with other exfoliating products.

I used the Total Eye Care in the morning, because I wanted to take advantage of the SPF15.  It goes on smoothly and is flesh-colored which I supposed is why they say it covers dark circles.

I thought Dermalogica was a line I had never tried until I opened my bathroom cabinet and saw that the moisturizing mist that I’ve used for two years–and loved in the dry heat of California summers–is Dermalogica’s Antioxidant HydraMist. I remember buying it at Ulta a couple of years ago when my face felt like it was corrugated paper from the dryness of the Sacramento summer. It’s part of Dermalogica’s Age Smart system.

So thank you, Planet Beauty, for introducing me to Dermalogica. The purpose of a swag bag has been fulfilled, and I’ll definitely be back for more.

 

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Sue from Illinois wrote

“I am always trying new skincare products. I am never sure if they are really working well on my skin or not. I am turning 60 next month and would like to do all that I can to keep my skin looking good. Can anyone share a regimen that has worked well for them? 

Well, Sue, I too am an inveterate tryer of skin care products.  Promise me smoother skin, fewer wrinkles, a creamy complexion or a taut jawline and I’ll try any regimen–at least for a little while.  High or low, specialty or drug store–it doesn’t matter. I’ve done the weird patting application of that megabucks cream derived from algae and I’ve daubed on the multiple products of the exclusive Janet Sartin. I’ve tried some of the most storied skin care preps on the market and some of the cheapest. I consider myself an expert, and therefore what I’m about to say should have the weight of a skin care oracle:

The skin care regimen that is best is….

the one that works best for you.

Yeah, yeah, yeah, I know.  Cheap shot or advice or whatever.  But really, think about it: the skin on our faces is unique to each of us and is further uniquely impacted by the specific ecosystem in which we live.  The water I use to wash my face isn’t the same water you use.  When I lay me down to sleep at night, the pillow I bury my face in is worlds away from yours.  The sun and air, flora and fauna, the everything that my skin lives in is totally different from yours.  Add all that up together, and you can see why there isn’t one skin care regimen that works for everyone.

Here are three that I know about myself and from our Advisory Committee:

Erno Lazlo is the long-time favorite of Laurie. The Lazlo Ritual (yes, that’s what they call it) includes several products tailored to your “skin personality” that cleanse, exfoliate and stimulate circulation thus ensuring the “famous ‘Laszlo Glow’.” Not the least of this Ritual is the Lazlo 30 Splashes.  Behold:

Wendy, on the other hand, swears by Obagi, the creation of Beverly Hills Dr. Obagi. It has a number of product lines, aimed at a variety of skin situations and conditions. Wendy, who is 50+, uses the Nu-Derm System, which is “an anti-aging therapy that penetrates below the skin’s surface to transform skin cell functions at the cellular level and correct the damage within.”  Used regularly, my friend Wendy (who is not the Wendy in the video that follows) finds that the Obagi regimen helps with age spots, fine lines, rough skin, redness and hyperpigmentation.

I’ve used Obagi and I too can attest to it worth.  However, I always return to the regimen of Dr Patricia Wexler, a Manhattan physician who is an acknowledged expert in dermatology.  There are four parts to her regimen–cleanse, exfoliate, restore and moisturize–with the product lines aimed at different skin types.  I used the Normal/Combination line, which conveniently comes packaged in the Anti-Aging Essential Starter Kit and includes the Universal Cleanser, the MMPi20 Skin Regenerating Serum, Skin Brightening Moisurizer SPF30, Intensive Night Reversal & Repair Cream and Intensive 3-in-1 Eye Cream.

Why do I always return to Dr. Wexler’s products? Because of the way they make my skin look and feel.  There is a quality to the texture of my skin, a plumpness or fullness even, that I don’t get with any other skin care regimen.   If you asked Laurie or Wendy, they’d say the same thing: the regimen they use creates the best possible complexion they can have.

All of which is to say, there isn’t really any better test for whether or not a skin care product is working than your eyes and  the way your skin feels.  So, Sue, try away as much as you like; just pay attention to what you’re seeing in the mirror.  As with most things related to our physical selves, we have the wherewithal to be our own experts.

What skin care regimen do you use? Got any advice for us about it?

 

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In my eternal quest for that product which will miraculously render me if not beautiful, then at least damn-I-look-good, I’m always open to trying something new.  This month, I have two contenders, both of which can be compared, favorably or not, to the Laura Mercier and Bare Minerals I’m already using.

The first is Bobbi Brown BB Cream.  You have heard about the BB creams, haven’t you? Of course you have. But let me review: the BB creams are an Asian, of-the-moment import.  They are touted as having miraculous curative powers and, in fact, the BB stands for Blemish Balm.  The backstory is that BB was developed in the 60s by a German dermatologist for her post-laser patients to use to cover the immediate effects of the laser and to speed healing.  From Germany, BB migrated to Korea and became a popular favorite for Asian women wanting that porcelain look.  Europeans took it up soon after and now, because we must have whatever they’re having, it has come to America. Depending on the manufacturer, the formulations of the BB cream are different–and so are the promises.

Bobbi Brown’s BB Cream is touted as a moisturizer, treatment, spf and foundation, all in one tube. It’s got a bunch of unpronouncable, but seemingly natural products that are meant to, among other things, reduce dark spots, boost collagen production, protect from the dreaded free radicals and provide broad spectrum UVA/UVB spf.  Not only that, but ”Light Reflective Pearls instantly brighten dull skin.”

I got a sample at Nordstrom’s and here’s what I found: it’s thick and even the lightest application makes for a dense coverage. I can see why it would be great for covering blemishes, but that’s one problem I don’t have.  It also feels heavy, almost like a skin on top of my skin, and I can feel myself sweating underneath it.  Finally, it has very quickly settled into my pores, which makes for a most unappealing mottled effect.  Excuse me while I go wash it off…

Obviously, I won’t be returning to the Bobbi Brown counter for a full-size tube, but that’s just me.  What I want in a foundation of that sort is something very light.  I’m not looking to create the illusion of perfect skin; I just want a product that will kinda even things out.  If you’re looking for more coverage, then definitely try this. Go to Nordstrom; get a sample; see what you think.

The CK One 3-in-1 Face Makeup is part of the recently released cosmetic line coming from the Calvin Klein brand. Note that I say ‘brand’ because I’m not sure that Calvin himself ever sees any of “his products” these days. Still, the CK brand is a good one, that I associate with classy simplicity which sounds to me like a very good thing for a makeup line.

The 3-in-1 part of the CK One is that a serum, primer and foundation have all been mixed together, ostensibly saving time and, I suppose, money. The promotional bumpf reads, “Triple-treated pigment technology mimics skin for an effortlessly natural, radiant finish.”

CK One is another relatively thick foundation but it applies very easily (yes, I used a brush).  Just one pump from the bottle did my entire face, and the coverage was excellent.  It dried to a matt finish and felt weightless on my skin.  Yes, it was “effortlessly natural”; as for “radiant finish”, not really (it’s a matt, after all).  It’s oil-free, non-comedogenic and has an spf of 5.  The low spf isn’t an issue for me, especially since I’ll use the CK One as an evening foundation for when I’m pulling out all the makeup stops.

So that’s one hit–the CK One 3-in-1–and one miss–the Bobbi Brown BB Cream.  Not bad–especially considering that the miss was a sample.  The moral to the story is to always try to get samples of new products. Most stores will accommodate that and some on-line sellers have lenient return policies.

Have I tempted you to try one of these new foundations? Tell me why or why not in the Comments.

 

 

 

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….or actually, a revision of parts of my post from last week.  Specifically, these parts:

I now have three different preparations which I apply religiously after I dry off: ((malin+goetz) Vitamin b6 body moisturizer, c.Booth Egyptian Argan Oil Body Butter, and Rite-Aid’s Renewal Dry-Touch Body Oil) . Do they help? Well, at the least they make me feel as if I’m taking some action. Does my skin look better? Than what? I suspect it looks better than someone who doesn’t slather themselves daily, but do my arms look as they did before they fell to the forces of intrinsic and extrinsic aging? Probably not.

The c.Booth Body Butter and Rite-Aid’s Renewal Dry-Touch Body Oil I have been using for three or four months now, so the verdict on them stands.  But the (Malin+Goetz) vitamin b6 body moisturizer–that was a brand-new to me product when I wrote the post.  Now, after just a week of using it, I must amend my verdict: I absolutely do notice a difference.  It’s not that my arms have returned to their former juicy smoothness.  What has disappeared, though, is a scaliness that, while not grotesque, is certainly not particularly appealing.  Perhaps scaliness might be the wrong word to use here; let’s say a unattractive dryness.

(Malin+Goetz) Apothecary and Lab is a New York-based business with the philosophy that “Less is more.”  Their natural-based formulas are aimed at resolving specific skincare problems by creating a perfect pH balance for women and men, head to toe.  Recently they opened a small shop on Larchmont in LA, and that’s where I found them.

The 7.5 oz tube of the vitamin b5 body moisturizer I bought gives a short treatise on its content, which, because I am an inveterate label reader, I am quoting here:

“Our oil-free, residue-free body moisturizer scientifically synthesizes natural vitamin B5 and soothing Bergamot extract with absorbent fatty acids and fatty alcohols.  Effectively hydrates and balances all skin types, unlike traditionally greasy, pore-clogging oils.  A nourishing treatment to reduce epidermal irritation.  Natural fragrance and color.”

Indeed.  And that natural fragrance–citrusy.  That’s the Bergamot, maybe?

I paid $38 for the tube, which is not cheap, but about average for boutique brands.  It’s quite concentrated and a little seems to go a long way.  In the end, though, the b5 body moisturizer does the job, which  the drugstore brands certainly do not.    If you’re not in NY or LA, (Malin+Goetz) has a thriving mail order business.  Check out their website for product details and an index of stores throughout North America that carry them.

What products do you use for body moisturizing?  Tell us what and why in the comments, please.

 

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Can we talk?  About skin?  I mean, really talk about skin?  Specifically–the skin on my arms.  When did the skin on my arms become such a spotty, wrinkly, chicken-foot scaley mess?

And why?  Did I not spend the past decades from age 18 to today slathering myself head to toe with body lotions? Did my skin not realize there was a purpose to my pampering it?  That I expected it to return the favor by not shriveling up on me at quite such an early age?  Ha!

http://fromyourdoctor.com

I think what’s happened is my melanocytes have gone crazy and my dermis has disintegrated.

Actually, what’s happened is the collagen in my skin has disappeared.  One source I read says we lose about 1% of our skin collagen every year starting at age twenty.  That’s called intrinsic aging, according to Suzan Obagi, assistant professor in dermatology at the University of Pittsburgh and director of the Cosmetic Surgery and Skin Health Center, who explains that when “collagen (which provides skin firmness), elastin (which supplies skin elasticity and rebound) and glycosaminoglycans or GAGs (which keep the skin hydrated)” start diminishing it leads to thinner, more fragile skin.  Then there’s extrinsic aging which results from environmental damage, and which accounts for the age spots, the freckles, the lesions, and the skin cancers!

Thank you so very much.

I now have three different preparations which I apply religiously after I dry off:  (Malin+Goetz Vitamin b6 body moisturizer, c.Booth Egyptian Argan Oil Body Butter, and Rite-Aid’s Renewal Dry-Touch Body Oil) .  Do they help?  Well, at the least they make me feel as if I’m taking some action.  Does my skin look better?  Than what?  I suspect it looks better than someone who doesn’t slather themselves daily, but do my arms look as they did before they fell to the forces of intrinsic and extrinsic aging?  Probably not.

Which leaves me with these thoughts:  what’s the problem with wrinkly, crepe-y arms?  Why when I lift my arm and see the skin shimmy down do I so quickly put my arm down?  It’s me and it’s my arm and don’t I have to own the dismay with which I view it? Yes, but I don’t think the dismay has as much to do with the idea that anything other than young, firm skin is ugly as it does with mortality.   I’m not pining for my formerly taut skin and I don’t reject my aging body.  I think I’m just shocked that it’s actually happened to me.

My generation thought we’d be young forever.  Really.  And now that we’re finding out the truth–well, that takes some getting used to. Seeing my skin look exactly like my mother’s did when she was no longer young brings me face to face with the fact that just as she died, so one day will I.  Not only will I not be young forever, I won’t live forever.  Wow.  Far out…..

 

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When my friends and I get together there is one topic that hogs the conversation. It’s not politics or the economy. It’s not sex or even our families. It’s the fact that we no longer see what we’re used to when we look in the mirror and, frankly, we’re not sure what to do about that.

We’re hungry for information about all things cosmetic, even those of us who used to be above such things. Yet the usual places to find such information–the women’s magazines–are, for those of us fifty plus, pretty lean. Vogue does a women at every age issue once a year. Harper’s Bazaar does it as a monthly photo feature. More seems less focused on us than the lower end of the Boomer generations.

So quietly and behind closed doors, we’re talking to each other. What do you use? What works? What doesn’t? What’s worth the money? What isn’t? Have you tried this? Would you? Yes? No? Maybe?

MidLife-Beauty is a window onto what my friends and I are saying to each other about makeup and hair, our skin and our bodies. We’ll be trying new products and talking about old ones. We’ll go into the science journals to learn what we have to about the latest new thing and what it might or might not do to us. And we’ll talk to each other, debating the issues of beauty.

Right now, we’re writing about things we’ve found and bought ourselves. If that ever changes, we’ll make clear when there’s sponsorship involved.

MidLife-Beauty shares with MidLifeBloggers the tag line: Making the Most of Midlife Together. That means, we’re looking for your input, your questions, your comments and, for those of you who blog, your posts. Join our Advisory Committee, sign up to receive us via email or RSS.  Tell us what you think, like, hate, want, need in this site.  We’re in beta now, so we’re tweaking, revising and editing out at will.  Help us do that.

 

 

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